Update:Bruni filed some additional thoughts on giving four stars to EMP.
Frank Bruni awards four stars to Danny Meyer restaurant Eleven Madison Park as he winds down his tour as restaurant critic. This, just a week after paring one star off of Union Square Cafe, another of Meyer's places. I ate at Union Square Cafe for the first time last summer during Restaurant Week and thought it was quite nice - to think so during RW should mean that it would be even better any other time. Then again, perhaps it is more the relative impression from years before that caused it to lose a star.
I dined at Eleven Madison Park in 2006 right around the time that the kitchen was transitioning to the current chef, Daniel Humm. I don't recall that dinner having had as strong of a molecular gastronomy bent as it appears to now from the photos with this review. The way I do remember that meal- the food was good, portions were on the small side and desserts were fantastic. I know the pastry chef at that time has since left. So I now feel compelled to try to make a return visit here sooner rather than later.