The Breslin Restaurant Week Review

Swirls of icy confetti that clouded the air the night before lay in ruins, forming layers of whipped cream across the sidewalks. People were scooping it out of the way into mounds where it would not be tread on. It was a snow day for many and a good one with the skies now clear and the sun shining. For my dining companion and me, it meant a bonus Restaurant Week lunch at The Breslin. I've had several good meals there now, but it is pricey enough to make the $24.07 lunch worth it. And it's snow day kind of food.

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A plate of blood sausage with a poached egg & mustard vinaigrette warmed us up. The texture and taste was akin to eating a liver pate. The egg was so delicate and runny, it was as though it had barely touched the boiling water. Steer clear if you have any fear of a raw egg.

I didn't know what to expect of the bollito misto: poussin, cotechino, and smoked lamb's tongue. But it sounded like the kind of meal you'd want before going into hibernation, something that would help bolster your stores of fat. It was an intriguing trio soaking in a light bath of broth — a deliciously tame piece of braised chicken, a tasty slice of sausage that I assumed was made from pork and the unfamiliar lamb's tongue. The smokiness of the tongue made it seem like a cousin to pastrami or a smoked ham. And I liked it as long as I didn't concentrate too much on the fatty texture and the thought of what I was actually consuming.

Small Bites

- Freakonomics Radio has posted a set of podcasts that addresses the role of science in food, which has produced the molecular gastronomy movement, and how it compares to the slow-food movement.

- The smell of bacon is a powerful thing; it even seduces some vegetarians.

- The government's latest dietary advice is, simply, eat less.

- Food writer Mark Bittman has traded in his Minimalist column for a column in the Opinion section where he will write about food issues and what he terms, "eaters' rights".

- Poet Maya Angelou shares her appreciation for cooking in a new home-style cookbook.

- You wouldn't necessarily think of Chinese New Year as a big holiday in Trinidad, but apparently Chinese culture is a significant part of the Caribbean island's culture.

Lan Sheng Review

There are two Szechuan Chinese restaurants on 39th Street between Fifth and Sixth Avenues. In many cities smaller than New York, that would be nearly enough to call it a Chinatown. In New York, there's nothing like a little competition or rivalry to keep restaurants on their toes. I've been to Szechuan Gourmet, which has gotten much attention and acclaim. But I had read on the blogs about Lan Sheng and a recent lunch there gave me the basis to compare it to Szechuan Gourmet.

When we sat down, I was disappointed to find there was no lunch specials section on the menu. Maybe we had to ask for it or maybe they've stopped having specials.

But I decided to order based on what I'd read about Lan Sheng, so we got the Lan Sheng special chicken listed under their signature dishes. It was a healthy portion of charred chicken slices over cabbage. The chicken had a really good deep flavor; it tasted like it had been marinated in a salty garlic sauce. I liked it, but my dining companion and I shared only two dishes and about halfway through, I found myself wishing for other flavors to balance these.

Shake Shack's February Flavors

Here's the monthly low down:

Monday: Bee Mine
Tuesday: Bananas Foster
Wednesday: Maple Walnut Spice
Thursday: Snowball
Friday: Chocolate Chip Cookie
Saturday: Thin Mint
Sunday: Passion Fruit-Pineapple

Le Cirque Restaurant Week Review

Le Cirque is one of those New York City restaurants you might consider an institution. It's been around for a few decades, though it has occupied several different locations in that time. The place is a very high-end French spot tucked away in an alcove between 58th and 59th Streets. The prices make it a prime example of a place worth trying for Restaurant Week when you can get a three-course dinner for $35, cheaper than the price of a single entree, most of which fall in the mid-$40 to mid-$50 range.

My understanding when I made my reservation was that we would be eating in the dining room. When my dining companions arrived, the host made a round through the dining room, then led us to the cafe area behind the bar. We were seated at a table directly in front of a live jazz band. It was so noisy we couldn't hear each other talk. We felt slighted; we were having our own Ruth Reichl "unknown diner" experience. We should have spoken up. I regret not doing so, but at the time, it was already late in the evening and a severe snowstorm was raging outside, so we were eager to get through our meal.

The online Restaurant Week menu had listed several options for each course but it did not make note of a $5 supplement for some of them as the menu we received at the restaurant did.

The bread basket was filled with delicious rolls, cranberry walnut slices and olive bread.

I was excited to try the grilled escargot and bacon brochette with lentils, red pepper and ginger. Unfortunately, this mostly flat — the escargot weren't sweet and in fact were quite bland and the pieces of bacon were more like squares of fat. The flavorful lentils were the redeeming factor.

Prime Meats Review

On a chilly Sunday night, after a show at St. Ann's Warehouse, a friend and I tried to get in for an early dinner at Vinegar Hill House. But not early enough alas —it had just filled up and it would be an hour wait. Taking advantage of my friend's car, we decided to try Prime Meats instead. We called ahead to see if there would be a wait and were told there wasn't at that time, but that that might change by the time we arrived. It seemed a bit unnecessarily couched as the place was mostly unoccupied when we arrived and never totally filled up by the time we left.

Prime Meats was dark and rustic, a good spot to hunker down and provision ourselves with some heavy wintry foods. There's been much talk of these no-reservations, long-waits restaurants; we might have had the cold weather to thank for being able to slip in easily.

Although my dining companion requested that the white bean and cabbage soup she ordered come to the table with my main course, it came at appetizer time. Not the worst offense, but it revealed there was some lack of attention, despite the fact that they were attentive to our water glasses. The soup was a nice roundly flavored broth filled with beans and strings of cabbage.

Small Bites

- The number of Korean greengrocers in New York has declined.

- Danny Meyer hoped never to have to close a restaurant, but unfortunately he had to do just that at the end of last year when Tabla shut its doors. Meyer talked about the how and why of the closing.

- Some chefs conceive of their dishes through sketching. Saveur showcases some sketches by Grant Achatz of Alinea and Michael Laiskonis, Le Bernardin's pastry chef, alongside images of the final products.
- Those with food addiction have to deal not only with their eating issues, but also with the idea that not everyone believes food addiction is a legitimate problem.

- Food makers establish their own nutrition labeling system after disagreeing with the F.D.A over what the labels should highlight.

- Bad service during a recent meal at a new restaurant reinforces for the Village Voice's restaurant critic just how important service is (and just how many places fail to execute it properly).

Revd Up Pi Review

Update: If you like this place or decide you want to try it out with some friends, Groupon is offering $20 worth of pizza for $10.

I love pizza. Plain and simple. But in a city known for its pizza, there are a lot of bad slices out there. And much of it has gotten increasingly expensive (though at the same time, there's been also been an outbreak of 99 cent pizza places). So, when it's free, it's not a gift to be overlooked. When I saw a coupon on Tenka for a free slice from Rev'd Up Pi in Murray Hill, I jumped on it. I had heard about this place, which claimed to offer healthy pizza, just 170 calories per slice. I was dubious and with prices starting at $3.50, I wasn't likely to try it on my own, not when my favorite spot is nearby.

Ai Fiori Review

Ai Fiori is the latest effort from Michael White, chef of Marea and Osteria Morini, which opened last fall. The restaurant is an elegant, expensive place, appropriate for it's location in the Setai hotel on Fifth Avenue and 37th Street. The good news is that White continues to produce wonderful food here.

We arrived for our reservation — early on a Saturday night — because at the time we made it, that was all that was available. But when we sat down, we were confused. The restaurant was large and mostly unfilled. As we dined, we realized that a majority of the restaurant was not yet being used. Perhaps they are still testing things out.

Small Bites

- Farmers are scarce at winter farmers markets. But does the prevalence of "value-added" vendors, who are not connected to farms, alter the concept of the markets in a positive or negative way?

- Jamie Oliver helps to convince Midtown Lunch's Zach Brooks that Chipotle isn't all bad.

- See what foods represent your state with this food-by-state map.

- South Los Angeles bans new fast-food restaurants as part of an effort to improve public health.

- James Osland, editor of Saveur Magazine, is profiled by Midtown Lunch.

- French chef Alain Ducasse helps 15 women from a poor suburb of Paris learn to cook.

Landmarc Review

Landmarc at the Time Warner Center is a sprawling restaurant overlooking Columbus Circle, a sibling to Landmarc Tribeca. Befitting its location, the restaurant is fairly upscale and the breakfast prices are on the high end. Unfortunately, the food lends credence to the idea that here you're just paying for location.

The Landmarc egg sandwich with Gruyere and bacon came on an English muffin and with a side of hash browns. You have a choice of bacon or sausage on the sandwich; I opted for bacon, but it wasn't what I expected. Rather than crispy strips, there were small chunks of thick-cut bacon mixed in with the egg. But many of the pieces were actually thick pieces of unappealing, chewy fat. The hash browns were thinly grated potatoes that were a little too salty, but otherwise okay.

Union Square Cafe Review

Danny Meyer opened his first restaurant, Union Square Cafe, when he was 27 years old. That was twenty five years ago, last fall. These days it seems as though it takes a particularly tough alignment of factors for a place to persevere that long. When you visit Union Square Cafe, it's not hard to see why it has thrived without even seeming dated.

Tucked away on 16th Street, just west of Union Square, the restaurant manages to appeal to those looking for a casual meal and those who want to get gussied up for a special occasion. Although one would be wise to book in advance, it's not so coveted that you won't be able to get a reservation for months. The menu is wide ranging enough to bring people of varying tastes together at one table. Despite the restaurant's apparent popularity, the service isn't rushed and my dining companion and I were allowed to have a leisurely dinner.

We started with the Cara Cara blood orange salad with fennel vinaigrette, toasted pine nuts and smoked ricotta. A dish filled with complex flavors, but the underlying sweetness of the oranges tied it all together. The restaurant also kindly split some of the dishes for us.

The local fluke crudo with Meyer lemon, seasoning peppers and sea beans was delicious. The citrus was again the main flavor, making for a refreshing appetizer. 

Small Bites

- Analysts debate whether the latest increases in food prices indicate a rapidly worsening problem with food supply and demand or if it's just a part of a longer-term issue.

- Some New York chefs live with the constraints of small kitchens at home.

- What would eating be like if we could block the receptors that allow us to taste bitter things?

- Figuring out how to put our money to best use when buying food can be a complicated task. This is how New Yorkers spend their money on food.

- There's a blog devoted to turning Kanye West's lyrics into songs about food.

- This is how to define "everything in moderation."

Fatty Cue Review

Brunch is a meal that divides. Some vehemently refuse to partake in it while others embrace the lazy weekend meal. Personally, I think brunch is great —it's another opportunity to eat and try new places. But many places offer uninspired, insipid platters of eggs and toast. I love the greasy spoon breakfast, but when it comes time for a brunch pick, I want the menu that has flare, the twists that make plates original. 

Brunch at Fatty Cue, in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, was my first New Year's meal. I'd heard good things about the place, focused on barbecue with a Southeast Asian bent. But I wasn't sure if any of that would come through at brunch, a time when some places seem to lose their backbone and turn into toned-down versions of their nighttime selves. But if this visit was any indication, then I'll have nothing to worry about when I return for dinner.

Perhaps the revelers were still asleep — there were few people here. The place was rustic and cozy with low ceilings; the service was very casual, yet attentive. This is just what brunch calls for. (Though they were out of several things, including the curried black eye peas I'd wanted to try.)

The Heritage pork ribs came just two to an order, but the small portion allowed me to dine in typical fashion — ordering an extra plate to share with my dining companions in addition to our individual choices. The long ribs were coated with smoked palm syrup and Indonesian long pepper, a tasty concoction that helped this hit the right combination of savory and sweet. 

Small Bites

- Some Chicago chefs attempt to turn the notorious Asian carp into a delicacy.

- Studies showed that calorie information won't deter people from eating what they want, but that people are receptive to reducing the portion size of side dishes.

- For those who make dieting a New Year's resolution, follow Slate.com's experiment with better eating. Meanwhile on Salon.com, Francis Lam makes a vow to eat chicken mindfully and ethically.

- New regulations in New York aim to clarify how restaurants should handle tips.

- As Sara Jenkins, chef at Porchetta, prepared to open her new restaurant, Porsena, she wrote about the difficulties of the task.

Grand Sichuan Review

When it comes to finding good Chinese food in Midtown, Szechuan (or Sichuan) cooking tends to dominate, unless you're looking for American Chinese food. I've written before about one of the star restaurants in the area, Szechuan Gourmet. It tends to get most of the attention while another terrific spot resides in its shadow just a few blocks away. Grand Sichuan, on Lexington Avenue near 33rd Street, is one of my go-to spots and definitely at the top of my list for nearby Chinese.

There are some dishes I just can't do without when I eat there, and on this visit I didn't. But I also tried a couple of new dishes.

I'd never had tomato and egg soup at any Chinese restaurant, so I wasn't sure what to expect. This was a delicious brothy soup with large omelet chunks that gave it a distinctly eggy flavor, tomato wedges and scallions.

Ninh's Vietnamese Sandwiches & Bubble Tea Review

 

My latest find: a Vietnamese sandwich place in Kips Bay/Murray Hill. After watching a movie at the Kips Bay theater, a gleaming green awning caught my eye. It looked like Ninh's Vietnamese Sandwiches & Bubble Tea was fairly new and, naturally, I wanted to check it out. The interior was as plain as the outside and the only menu was the takeout one on the counter.

January Custard Flavors

Here are Shake Shack's custard choices to open the new year. Not much new here, perhaps because fewer people are coming out to eat custard in the cold.

Monday: Boston Cream Pie
Tuesday: Gianduja
Wednesday: Carrot Cake
Thursday: Honey Roasted Peanut
Friday: Salted Caramel
Saturday: Mint Chocolate Chip
Sunday: Cinnamon Chip

Food Gallery 32 Review

It was lunchtime and I was thinking about what new place I might try (as every meal is an opportunity for good eats). Just then, I conviently espied the new Food Gallery 32 in Koreatown. It had recently opened, so I stopped in to see what this was all about.  

Small Bites

- A Taiwanese restaurateur reveals what makes his noodle dish the most expensive in the world. 

- The debate over restaurant critic anonymity is revived when a Los Angeles restaurant aggressively outs the Los Angeles Times critic.

- LA Weekly interviews departing Bon Appetit editor Barbara Fairchild.

- The rapid spread of coupon sites such as Groupon and Village Vines, which offer dining discounts, has restaurant owners debating whether they are advantageous or bad for business.

- The Rungis International Food Market, the world's largest food market which has operated since 1110, is still going strong.

- A dispute with the Los Angeles Film School over parking is endangering the Hollywood Farmers Market.

- Madhur Jaffrey, the queen of Indian cooking, hasn't always had a life that revolved around food.

- How did black-eyed peas become a New Year's tradition?

- Now that Christmas is over, you could turn your tree into your next meal.

Must Eat: Lamb Burger

Often, I recommend restaurants that I've had good meals at because I think the food I've had is good overall and the atmosphere is right for the occasion. Less often, a particular dish I've had stands out and merits returning to a place just for that one thing. But those are the things that I become evangelical about, foods that people just must try. 

Last year, I visited April Bloomfield's Breslin restaurant for the first time and liked it. I have been back several times because the food's pretty good, and the location and hours are often convenient. But since trying the signature lamb burger there, it's become one of my favorite dishes in the city. The thick, juicy burger is served medium rare on a grilled bun with a slab of feta cheese and slices of red onion. When you cut through it, the pink juices spill out and drain into the moat of the cutting board-like plate. Eating it nearly quenches a thirst. Sinking your teeth into this burger is a satisfying effort and your tongue is humbled by the deep, smooth flavor of the lamb. The fat fries are crispy and addictive. They come with a cumin mayo on the side. It's a complete winner of a dish. 

Leña Latin Grill Review

After passing by Leña Latin Grill nearly everyday for months since it opened this summer, I finally went in and tried one of their "wraps." Wraps are one of my least favorite things to eat, but Leña's versions are more like burritos. In fact, I had the impression that this fast food place was not unlike a Chipotle.

Small Bites

 - The Wall Street Journal explains the importance of a cheesemonger.

- Not only have Americans gained weight, so have cookbooks.

- The Freakonomics blog examines the relationship between price and taste among wines.

- Though business slows down in the winter, many food trucks have no choice but to keep turning out in the cold weather.

- Francis Lam indulges in Drake's cherry fruit pie.

- What is the impact of grass-fed beef on the environment?

- New York City restaurant owners feel the pressure of the grading system.

Mmm...Enfes! Review

Thanks to a post by Midtown Lunch that a friend alerted me to about gözleme being sold at the Bryant Park holiday shops, I was able to indulge in memories of my trip to Turkey several years ago. Food is a great lifeline to the past, to nostalgia because it stirs your senses — you're connected to the smells, the atmosphere, the people and the place. The taste of new experiences can be strong.

Community Food & Juice Review

A weekday midmorning breakfast is what I'd like to think of as a peaceful domain, fewer crowds and a time of leisure, for those lucky enough to have the hours free. At Community Food & Juice, this was not quite the case. It was perpetually packed with diners and by lunchtime there were people crowded at the entrance waiting for a table. This neighborhood restaurant specializing in organic, sustainable food was opened by the owners of Clinton St. Baking Company, which should have been my first hint that its popularity would not heed the bounds of common rush hours. Despite this, the restaurant did not rush us and generously allowed us to set our own pace, which in our case was rather slow.

El Guyaquileño Cart Review

 

I was in the mood for something ethnic for lunch, something with some heavy spices or flavors, something to warm me up from the inside and keep the chill out. I thought about returning to the Dosa Cart to try something different, but then I remembered a cart I had seen often on my way to work, parked in Midtown on the corner of Sixth Avenue and 37th Street — El Guayaquileño.

After reading Midtown Lunch's review, I thought the goat stew sounded like the perfect remedy for my cravings.

Small Bites

- The government's lack of action in regulating the egg industry may have contributed to the salmonella outbreak that led to the biggest recall ever of eggs.

- President Obama signs a child nutrition bill, something the First Lady has shown much support for.

- The Zagats weigh in and provide some good background on the disputes that several prominent restaurateurs are having over tips and fair wages.

- What the opening of Hooters in Japan looks like.

- Could thinking about the foods we really want to eat make us want to eat them less? It could be the ultimate diet. But on Salon.com Francis Lam argues that it would take away from the satisfaction of eating.

Adventures in Southeast Asia Part 4

Our visit to Siem Reap, Cambodia, fell in the middle of the trip, sandwiched between Bangkok and Ho Chi Minh City. Its rural, tropical feel was a nice break from the big cities. Sadly, we didn't have any good meals in Vietnam. So, this lunch on our second day in Siem Reap was our first truly good meal. After touring a couple of temples, our tour guide took us to Eat at Khmer, a roadside restaurant across from the old royal swimming hole. It was a place that was clearly hosting only groups of tourists. With every vehicle's unloading, children swarmed, singing out "Madam, take a look," in an attempt to sell cheap souvenirs to you.

Adventures in Southeast Asia Part 3

My time in Bangkok was limited; with just a day and a half, I wanted to make the most of my few meals in the city. So as soon as we arrived, I had a place picked out for our first lunch: Khrua Aroy Aroy. The Lonely Planet guide only listed the intersection of two streets as the address, so it was a bit of a challenge to find, especially when I had little sense of what type of restaurant I might be looking for. It was across from an Indian temple and had a worn awning with a room that seemed to merge into the sidewalk. Entering this cozy spot was disorienting — we turned heads when we entered and I wasn't sure that anyone spoke English or that there was room for us. But the excitement of trying some real Thai food had my heart beating hard. After lingering for a moment of discomfort, one of the waitresses motioned for us to take a small table at the back to which they had to add a stool or two.

Adventures in Southeast Asia Part 2

Bangkok is rich in its street food culture, but the next best thing seems to be the small hole-in-the-wall restaurants, simple affairs that are spare and family run. Any basic research on food in Bangkok turns up the name Chote Chitr, a tiny restaurant that has been around for 90 years. There are tons of recommendations for it, but as with any popular place, also many mixed reviews. But nevertheless, I put it down as a must-try, to find out for myself.

After touring Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace, I successfully guided my skeptical family to the shadowy doorway of Chote Chitr. The place was empty but for a woman sleeping with her head down on a table — my heart sunk. And it was then I noticed the sign posted on the door: Closed for renovation until Dec. 1. That was the next day. So, that would have to wait until my next visit.

With the Lonely Planet city guide in hand, I tried to find a replacement lunch spot on Thanon Tanao, along which the guide suggested an eating tour. I struck out on the first couple, which appeared to no longer be there. But we managed to find Kim Leng, a place specializing in the food of central Thailand. It was filled with locals who all turned to stare when we stepped inside. A short, round man pointed to the only empty table in the middle of the room, still topped with dirty dishes from its previous occupants. He came over and asked what we wanted, but not being quite that well versed in Thai food, we asked for a menu. He brought over a few, but kindly recommended two dishes — mee krob and the minced catfish with shrimp paste. So we ordered those along with a few tame dishes.

The mee krob was a sticky jumble of sweet, crispy noodles. A few pieces of tasty shrimp hid among them. On its own it was a bit too sweet, but it helped to tame the heat of the spicy catfish.

The minced catfish was fried and tossed with incredibly hot chili shrimp paste and topped with some fried basil. A little bit with rice was tasty, but my lips were soon burning.

Adventures in Southeast Asia Part I

If you've been paying any attention in the last few weeks, you might have noticed a lack of posting. In that time I was traveling to in Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand on a family trip. It was a bit of a whirlwind trip with just a couple of days in each place and what felt like constant traveling. I was extremely excited for the food in the region and hoped to have some good reports upon my return. Although I had some tasty meals, much of this trip unfortunately fell prey to tourist traps and a lack of an adventurous spirit on the part of my traveling companions. Also, I have to say that it reinforced for me just how good the ethnic food that is available in New York is. But, I'd still like to highlight the best of my eats abroad.

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The streets of Thailand are amazingly rich with food vendors and where I most enjoyed the food. Despite nearly every block being occupied by some form of edible fortification there isn't as much repetition as there is with the dirty water dog and kebab carts on every other New York street corner. Exotic fruits, Thai candies, fried foods on sticks fill the tame end of the spectrum; wok-fried noodles, pots of stews and many other colorful unidentifiable foods call out to the more daring eaters. Dabbling in street food in foreign lands is always a risky prospect, especially when facing plane rides in the near future. I had heard and read mixed opinions on the safety of Bangkok's street food — it's such an integral part of the culture, how could I not try it? Yet, I did not want to be left bowled over in pain. Been there, done that.

Small Bites

- The Senate passed a new food safety bill.

- How food recalls affect consumers' buying habits of those products.

 - A former New York Times restaurant critic weighs in on a reader's complaint that The Times caters to the wealthy by reviewing expensive restaurants.

- The Village Voice interviews Amanda Hesser, founder of Food52 and a new cookbook, The Essential New York Times Cookbook: Classic Recipes for a New Century.

- Slate takes cues from Rene Redzepi's NOMA cookbook (Redzepi is the chef of NOMA, which has been dubbed the best in the world) to guess what might soon show up in American cooking.

- In case you ever wondered what it would be like to go on a 60-day potatoes-only diet, this man is finding out.

DBGB Revisit

It had been over a year since my first visit to DBGB. I returned with a dining companion who was new to the place. The food on this visit was a notch better than last time, but it still seemed like a place to go to primarily for the sausages; the other food is incidental.

To balance out all the meat in the meal, we chose the simple butter lettuce and chive salad with radishes and garlic mustard dressing. The large leaves were lightly coated in the mild dressing, making the flavors feel well integrated rather than overwhelming. It's the way a salad should be done, if the dressing isn't served on the side.

If you plan on sampling different flavors of sausages, ordering the duo of sausages entree is a good option. We got the crumbly Beaujolaise (pork, mushrooms, onion, bacon & red wine) served with a side of lentils and the Thai sausage (pork, lemongrass and red curry with green papaya, basil fried rice, chili sauce and a quail egg). Both were good, though I really enjoyed the Thai sausage. The seasonings common to Thai food — basil, lemongrass — were bold. But the Thai sides tasted like they were trying too hard.

Shake Shack's December Flavors

Shake Shack is in the holiday spirit with appropriate seasonal flavors. Thursday's flavor sure is a mouthful.

Monday: Eggnog
Tuesday: Figgy Pudding
Wednesday: Panettone
Thursday: Chocolate Orange Chestnut Swirl
Friday: Candy Cane Crunch
Saturday: Gingerbread
Sunday: Spiced Apple Cider

A Walk with Calvin Trillin

For many, the name Calvin Trillin is synonymous with food writing characterized by a particular voice of deadpan humor. Others are familiar with his work as a longtime contributor to The New Yorker. On a brisk, sunny October morning, it was the allure of having this writer share his enthusiasm for some of his favorite food spots that drew nearly 40 people to a secret meeting spot in the West Village.

The Come Hungry tour, part of the annual New Yorker Festival, is a tough ticket.  A few weeks before, the Friday that tickets went on sale, I sat before my computer ready to do battle with the online system, at noon on the dot. In just a couple of minutes it would be over. I had tried to get these tickets each of the last five years with not even a slim moment of hope before the sold out message appeared on my screen, seemingly the same second they were supposed to be available. The spinning wheel, the processing Web page — this time, I had won the lottery.

Trillin is a man of average height. With droopy cheeks, a bulbous nose, bushy, unkempt eyebrows and hunched shoulders, he resembles a St. Bernard. His blue eyes seem twinged with sadness. If you passed him on the street, he would seem unremarkable. It is his writing that makes people take note, his dry sense of humor that emanates from the words on the page, a humor that makes you laugh out loud while reading; to be a part of this tour was to translate that to life.

Pure Thai Shophouse Review

Hell's Kitchen is so saturated with Thai restaurants that you'd almost begin to wonder if this was a mini Thai town. So the opening of yet another one should elicit nothing more than a groan. But Pure Thai Shophouse has attracted a bit of attention. It belongs to the same owners of Upper West Side restaurants, Recipe and Land Thai. The menu seems to offer several dishes that are a little different from your tired Pad Thai or Massaman curry options.

There's also a board with daily specials and a small assortment of groceries for sale up front.

Restaurant News Roundup

Some noteworthy restaurant news in the New York restaurant world:

- Chef Yasuda is leaving the restaurant bearing his name, Sushi Yasuda. It's one of the best sushi spots in the city.

- Artichoke Pizza, which opened a full restaurant in Chelsea earlier this fall, is about to open another takeout branch in the Village.

- Tea drinkers might be interested to hear that Harney & Sons have put down roots in Soho.

 - And for coffee addicts, Piccolo Cafe has opened a small storefront on 40th Street near Eighth Avenue where it sells pasta, sandwiches and desserts in addition to coffee.

- The owners of The Breslin recently opened the highly anticipated new John Dory, also at the Ace Hotel. The restaurant previously had a home in Chelsea but closed last year.

- Brooklyn Fare's Cesar Ramirez will expand into a new restaurant next door.

- K! Pizzacone is now papered up and there's a for rent sign in the window.

- Il Laboratorio del Gelato's much-delayed larger branch in the Lower East Side has opened.

Small Bites

- One writer doesn't cook for her parents to preserve her food memories.

- An exotic meats enthusiast shares why he likes those meats and offers some advice on how to get and cook them.

- Airplane food today is so bad that, comparatively, there was a time when dining in the air seemed glamorous, but perhaps it's always been bad.

- Google has launched a Yelp-like restaurant recommendation site. Zagat tries to find success among the many online restaurant recommendation options. And the Michelin Guide announces its ratings for Chicago restaurants. Alinea was one of two restaurants to win Michelin's highest rating of three stars.

Dosa Cart Review

When it comes to eating in Midtown, many have a knee-jerk reaction that there aren't many good options. Midtown Lunch has done a lot to dispel that notion. And if you are open and adventurous, there's an abundance of places to explore. The area seems to have a greater concentration and variety of food trucks at lunchtime than most other areas. For a while now, I have passed by a dosa truck on my way to work everyday. Today was finally the day for it. I was sick of my cafeteria salads and decided to head over to the truck on Broadway and 39th Street.

Basically all the items on the menu are $5. The cart not only offers dosas but also uttapam and rice dishes.

For my first encounter, I decided to try the basic masala dosa. Dosas are a South Indian specialty, a thin crepe folded over various types of filling. The masala dosa is a mixture of curried potatoes and onions.

Burgers & Cupcakes Review

There's a lot of competition for burgers in the Times Square area these days with places like Schnipper's, Five Guys and Shake Shack within a few blocks of one another. Burgers & Cupcakes is slightly farther south of the main hustle and bustle, but sits on restaurant-heavy Ninth Avenue in Hell's Kitchen. And it marries two things this city has been crazy for for some time now — burgers and cupcakes.

I'm not a huge fan of beef burgers (though Shake Shack has managed to win me over), so I was glad to see that Burgers & Cupcakes offered other burger options such as turkey and salmon. Beyond lettuce, tomato, onions and a pickle, the toppings come a la carte and you pay $1 for each one. I went for the turkey burger with Swiss cheese and a side of fries. Because turkey burgers are leaner than beef ones, they are more prone to produce a dry patty. But my burger was moist and I liked the soft, doughy roll it came on. I was also excited to see that the fries were thin cut and crispy, a style I love but don't find often.

Recent Eats

Perhaps it was the increasing chilliness of the season, perhaps it was just a temporary need for a break from my constant hunt for restaurants that fit the criteria of the moment. It was a week of turning to convenience and comfort, to places where I could confidently chow down. And it was all gratifying.

Good Restaurant

I've sung praise for brunch at this West Village eatery; a meal that seems to bring out the crowds. But on a weekday at midday, Good is relaxed and allows for a leisurely lunch.

The classic grilled cheddar cheese sandwich (you can also choose pepperjack cheese if you prefer) served with tomatoes and a side of mixed greens is large and filling. You're likely to take half of it home.

The harvest salad is a healthy enough portion of mixed greens tossed with aged cheddar, roasted pears, pecans and dressed in apple cider vinaigrette. I added roasted turkey for an additional $4, which seemed a bit steep for three very thin, though tasty, slices of meat.

Small Bites

- Brooklyn will get its very own Shake Shack, in the Fulton Street Mall.

- Even the most adventurous of foodies have certain foods that are turnoffs. The Village Voice compiles a list of their 10 most challenging dishes in New York City.

- The chefs whom Alinea chef Grant Achatz has chosen for his new ventures (Aviary and Next) answer a few questions for Chicago Magazine.

- Cooks Source magazine makes a stir by plagiarizing and the magazine editor's response makes the situation worse.

- Author Rick Bragg has a deep love of mayonnaise.

Recent Eats

The Cellar Bar at the Andaz Hotel

This spot is tucked away beneath The Shop restaurant at the Andaz 5th Avenue hotel across from the New York Public Library. When you enter through the restaurant, you'll feel lost, but you walk to the back and down a set of stairs. Listen for the noise and head to the unmarked wooden door. When you open it up, you'll find yourself in a wide-open bar with communal tables and booths along the back wall. The place is dark with an open kitchen that looks almost like a performance space. It feels like a cool space, but the service is friendly and the bar isn't as pretentious as it may seem upon your initial meeting.

Mexican Firing Squad:  Herradura Blanco tequila, lime pomegranate molasses, angostura bitters
Perry Grove: Martin Miller's Westbourne strength gin, lemon, Belle de Brillet pear liqueur, Peychaud's bitters

Potato Torta. This had a slightly off taste, maybe from some kind of blue cheese.

Aburiya Kinnosuke Lunch Review

Aburiya Kinnosuke seems to have quickly worked its way into my repeat visits list. I had dinner there just the other week, but returned recently to check out the lunch specials, which were supposed to be a good deal. Each day, there is a meat lunch, a fish lunch and a chef's special, of which only eight are available. By the time my dining companion and I arrived at 12:45, the chef's special was gone. The specials all come with soup, rice and dessert.

I decided to go with the fish lunch ($16) which came with two plates — a grilled mackerel and simmered eel cooked with egg. The mackerel was plain and simple and extremely fishy, but right up my alley. I loved the eel which was topped by scrambled eggs mixed in with a slightly sweet soy sauce (perhaps the eel sauce that often coats eel in sushi). The set also came with a small plate of pickles and a bowl of jellyfish, providing crunchy counterparts to the fish.

Lincoln Review

Lincoln is a new restaurant that opened at Lincoln Center about a month ago in a glass-encased structure among other recent glass-building additions to the arts complex. The restaurant is the product of chef Jonathan Benno, who left his job as chef of Per Se to strike out on his own. There seemed to be much anticipation for its opening, so I was surprised to land a prime-time reservation after calling just a couple of days beforehand.

As you are led into the dining room, you pass a glass wall that affords a clear view into an orderly kitchen.

The space is lovely, with wood-paneled, sloping ceilings and glass walls. The chairs smartly swivel out to greet you and swing you back into place at the table.

The meal started off with bread sticks seasoned with oregano and chili; flat rectangular crackers coated in pork fat and Parmesan, and square crackers with olive oil, white sesame and parsley. They were nice snacks to munch on as we tried to figure out just what to order, which turned out to be harder than expected.

Small Bites

- Jean-Georges Vongerichten plans on selling his sodas at Union Square beginning early next year.

- An interview with restaurateur Danny Meyer on the 25th anniversary of his first restaurant, Union Square Cafe.

- T Magazine's Peter Meehan shares the current status of his relationship with Chinatown.

- Some people don't view foodies favorably.

Recent Eats

Lunch at Lazarra's Pizza. The lunch special fried calamari sandwich with a spicy red sauce. I liked that the breading wasn't thick, but the sandwich was a bit on the bland side, not to mention quite messy, and the calamari wasn't tender enough.

Essex Street Market to Open on Sundays

Besides eating, one of my favorite food-related activities in my free time is exploring food markets. The Essex Street Market on the Lower East Side is a great one with a combination of produce, meat and seafood stands as well as some specialty food sellers, such as Saxelby Cheese (I recommend you check it out if you haven't been). It's also the site of the great breakfast and brunch spot, Shopsin's. There have been many times I've wanted to take people to eat at Shopsin's or just to the market to explore on a Sunday morning, but unfortunately the market has always been closed on Sundays. It didn't make a lot of sense to me because Sundays seem like a day more people would have time to come out and shop. But beginning next weekend, the market will be open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

November Flavors Are Here

Shake Shack has packed this month with fruit-based flavors. After voting tomorrow, try out Cranberry Cashew or if you missed out on Pumpkin Pie last month, make it your hump day treat.

Monday: Salted Caramel
Tuesday: Cranberry Cashew
Wednesday: Pumpkin Pie
Thursday: Maple Brown Butter
Friday: Banana Bread
Saturday: Shack Shiraz Poached Pear
Sunday: Apple Caraway

Osteria Morini Review

Mario Batali may be one of the biggest names in Italian food in New York, but Michael White is giving him stiff competition as he builds up a collection of impressive restaurants, including Marea and Alto, two spots I've had great meals at. Now White adds Osteria Morini to that bunch. The Soho restaurant has been open less than a month and it's already a bit of a scene, crowded and noisy. The tables are close together and the tables along the wall awkwardly leave the outside diner in the way of traffic. Yet, the service is surprisingly pleasant (although perhaps not quite attentive enough as there were some minor problems). I was so pleased by the food that it trumped any issues on this evening.

My dining companion and I started with the Sformato, parmigiano-truffle cheese custard with wild mushroom sugo. After asking what we thought, one of the servers mentioned that this had just been added to the menu on this night. I say: Make it permanent. The cheese custard was smooth and creamy and balanced the earthy mushrooms perfectly. I couldn't get enough.

Small Bites

- Providing healthy food in vending machines creates unique challenges.

- The Atlantic gives us the history of candy and Halloween.

- Harold McGee, a sort of food scientist, shares his advice for home cooks with Terry Gross of NPR's Fresh Air.

- In an interesting experiment, Test Kitchen, a pop-up restaurant in Los Angeles, has chefs cycling through every couple of days, creating a revolving door of menus.

- Salon.com offers ways to avoid wasting food.

- Blue Hill's New York restaurant begins a menu-free night each month, following the setup of the Stone Barns branch.

Restaurant Reviews From Around the Country

- The Boston Globe heads to The Gallows, which I reviewed earlier this year.

- Time Out Chicago reviews The Girl and the Goat, opened by Stephanie Izard, winner of Top Chef Season 4. Years ago I ate at her first restaurant, Scylla, and loved it, so this new one will be high on my list when I next visit Chicago.

Sala One Nine Review

Whenever my friends and I are trying to decide what type of food to eat, they tease me about my penchant for tapas. I like variety in my meal and tapas is a good way to achieve that. There are several good places around the city, but Sala One Nine in the Flatiron is a good spot for classic Spanish tapas.

Grilled chorizo.