Restaurant Week: Colicchio & Sons Review

Though I had previously been to Colicchio & Sons and was underwhelmed, I chose to return because my first experience was only brunch, which often isn't representative of a restaurant's best efforts. Dinner was better, but it wasn't without its flaws.

In the plus column, Colicchio & Sons did offer its entire regular menu for Restaurant Week, meaning that this meal would give my dining companion and me a good sense of the restaurant's abilities.

The raw salmon with celery and pink peppercorn was bright and flavorful, but the portion was on the small side, the equivalent of what felt like just a few bites of food.

The roasted bone marrow with truffle vinaigrette and drunk onions was the best dish of the evening. The marrow was rich and unctuous and perfectly paired with the earthy truffle sauce. The marrow, served in the bone, also came with toast.

The TC burger with pecorino and drunk onions was a decent burger, if not fairly standard and boring. I did like the crispy, light chips though.

I decided to order the P.H.L.T. sandwich — a fried pig's head sandwich
— with cherry tomatoes  because it was something I hadn't had before. The waitress did warn that it was a heavy dish and indeed that was true. But despite the fried coating, there was still a distinctly porky flavor that came through the inner meat, which resembled pulled pork. I'm glad I tried it, but wasn't wowed enough to think I'd order this again.

The market raspberry tart with lemon thyme and buttermilk ice cream was a filling summery dessert. The tart was a thick shortbread filled with cream and topped with raspberries.

The zeppole with olive oil ice cream and peach preserves allowed Colicchio & Sons' to indulge in the fad of warm doughnuts for dessert. But these, dusted in a light coat of sugar, were quite good. I've had better olive oil ice cream, though (namely, at Otto).

Colicchio & Sons seems to be a bit hit or miss, depending on what you order. But it is one of the restaurants that has extended its Restaurant Week menu beyond the initial run. So, you can still head over and check it out for yourself for $35 through September 5.