Clinton St. Baking Company Pancake Month

Every February Clinton St. Baking Company has pancake month. Throughout the month, two special flavors of pancakes are offered for a couple of weekdays, changing each week. Whenever anyone asks for a good brunch place, I recommend Clinton St., with a caveat about the wait time and a rave for the masterfully done pancakes. This year, I finally got around to eating there during pancake month and tried the Japanese pumpkin pancake.

The pancakes came with a pumpkin seed streusel and warm maple butter. Heavy drizzles of pumpkin puree and powdered sugar made this a dazzling work of art. And the balance of flavor seemed so natural and effortless. The streusel helped bring out just a bit of sweetness in the pumpkin, so that the pancakes were more meal than dessert. They were wonderfully buttery with slightly crisp edges. A more perfect pancake I have not found.

The country breakfast may look plain, but it's a delicious hearty three eggs, grilled "cure '81" ham steak, hash browns and a giant buttermilk biscuit. Your basic breakfast components, made not only to satisfy but to impress.

And I like the sign the restaurant has hanging up front. It's a motto I could live with.